11358 104 Avenue NW
Edmonton AB T5K 2W9
Bistro Saisons is a new restaurant in Oliver with a seasonally changing menu focused on season-congruent dishes and local ingredients. The restaurant opened so recently, in fact, that the signage of the former occupant of the location, 4th & Vine, is still present on the restaurant's exterior.
Crisp on the outside, the inside of the fritters are moist with the fat of duck confit & bacon with the occasional bite of red pepper to keep me on toes. They come with a Saskatoon berry reduction, reminiscent of a plum sauce in texture and sweetness, but with a notable berry twist.
|Gnocchi de parisienne|
The homemade gnocchi are delectable. Cloaked in the rich and nutty aroma of brown butter, the slightly firm exterior gives way to a pillowy centre. Slivers of pecorino cheese deliver a salty punch, and a rare piece of butternut squash offers a hint of sweetness.
While the meat of the pork shank comes off the bone with ease, I find myself wishing for more jus to offset the leanness of the cut. The acidic bite of the savoy cabbage, and the rich & creamy sauce of the potato "risotto" result in two contrasting, yet pleasing accompaniments.
My Spring Ranch steak, topped with goat cheese mushroom butter and cooked to a perfect medium rare, melts in my mouth. It is the best I've had in some time. The accompanying fries are freshly cut and scented with pecorino. The smokey tomato aioli is the only disagreeable part of the entire meal.
The seasonal inspiration and the emphasis on local, fresh ingredients came through in every dish at our visit. I look forward to returning to Bistro Saisons to see what other seasons will bring.